How about them melons?

Rattling along a lane through fields full of melons, the perfumed flesh of the Charentais, and a summer salad that's salty, sweet and a little spicy.

Melon Salad - Scroll down for this week’s market haul.

On Saturday night, we drove along a rutted track towards the Étang and this beautiful shack of a restaurant right on the water. They serve oysters and mussels and little octopus pies, with ice lollies for dessert. I’ll tell you about it properly some time. That’s not the point of this.

As we bounced a…