The Art of the Apér-No

This week, you can have too much of a good thing, a recipe for panisses, the chunky chips of the South of France, and a pared-back market haul.

Here in the village, it’s cooler now, a breezy 24°C. The streets are quieter, the Tuesday market less busy. When I woke yesterday morning, I thought it was raining. It wasn’t. The sound was merely the dry, brown leaves from the plane trees that line the avenue de la Marine blowing down the street.

At this time of year, there’s sense of emptying out and f…