Cool as…

It’s so hot I can barely wield a knife, so I made this cucumber salad then had a nice sit down

The weather map is red and the dogs are conked out on the cool, tiled floors. As soon as I’ve finished this, I might join them. On the back terrace, the thermometer reads 34C (93F) in the shade and I’m contemplating just how delicious it might be to hang out in the cellar with the laundry.

One pavement-meltingly hot summer when I lived in London, the Iraqi man who worked in our newsagent said to me, “You need to eat cool things, cucumbers and watermelon”. We’re not quite in watermelon season yet, but I’m going through about a cucumber a day at the moment – in drinks, as crudités, and in salads such as this one. This salad one of the rare recipes when eating something fridge-cold makes it even better, so if you have time to chill it, do. If not, make it, eat it, and go and put your feet in a bucket of cold, cold water.

Salade de concombre

Cucumber salad

This is a great, simple summer salad which is great on its own, but it’s also a wonderful accompaniment to all kinds of other things too (suggestions below). I was just getting ready to make it when a friend gave me some freshly-picked peas, so I folded the raw peas in too. You can leave the peas out, or use frozen ones lightly blanched if that’s what you’ve got.

SERVES 2 AS A SIDE

1 cucumber, about 450g
1 small shallot, about 20g, cut into fine rings
About 2-3 tbsp red wine vinegar or cider vinegar
1 tbsp sesame seeds
2-3 tbsp crème fraîche
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 small bunch of chives, about 5g, finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, halved, any green germ removed, and very finely minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Optional addition
100g fresh peas or frozen petits pois – blanche the frozen ones for a minute in boiling water, then drain and rinse under a cold tap

If the skin of the cucumber is at all tough, peel it with a sharp vegetable peeler. Halve it lengthways, scrape out the seeds, then cut it into thickish slices of 5mm-1cm. Place the slices in a colander in the sink. Sprinkle with salt, give them a stir, and leave to stand for 10 minutes or so. This helps to make them crisp. Rinse them quickly under the cold tap, drain and then pat them dry with a clean tea towel or kitchen paper.

While you’re salting the cucumber, put a couple of ice cubes, a splash of water and a splash of vinegar into a small bowl with the shallot. Leave it to sit for 10 minutes or so then drain.

In a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat, toast the sesame seeds just until they start to become fragrant, about 30 seconds to a minute.

In a large bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and chives. Toss the cucumber, shallot and sesame seeds in the dressing, along with the peas if you are using them. If possible, chill it in the fridge before eating.

Extra things to add …

• Flaked tuna

• Grilled chicken or fish

• In a roll, with crab or lobster

• A steak

• Hard-boiled eggs

• Prawns

Printable Recipe

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Market haul, 26 May 2026

This week’s haul comprises new season garlic, sand carrots, strawberries, two chicken carcasses for stock, some tomme de Savoie, Roquefort and goat’s cheese, eggs, tomatoes, violet artichokes, avocados, cucumber.

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